The Diamond 4Cs

Diamond Carat

Diamonds’ weight are measured in carats. A carat is an ancient weight coming from ancient Greece based on the weight of the seeds of the carob tree. This tree is commonly found in the Mediterranean sea and its fruits contain seeds that are uncannily similar in weight and size. Ancient merchants would use them in their primitive scales to check the weight of small and light goods like diamonds. This unit was standardized in the XIX century at 0.2 grams.

Diamond carat weight size and its real look for round brilliant cut diamonds.

 

Carat weight is extremely important for your budget as a diamond as sold by weight. Bigger diamonds are harder to be found in the minds and the bigger the diamond the more difficult that it does not have big imperfections. So diamond prices grow exponentially as weight increases rather than proportionally.

To help to trade, diamond dealers created price tables. These price tables go sometimes by 0,1-carat difference, 0.5 carats or even 1 full carat difference. For example, diamonds from 1.00 to 1.49 are in one price bracket, and diamonds from 1.5 to 1.99 are in a different one. That’s why the savvy buyer would try to purchase diamonds that are oversize or also called magic size.

These diamonds look exactly the same or very close to the next price range but the buyer still is buying using the lower bracket and getting a similar look. An example of an oversize diamond is 1.30 to 1.49 carat. These diamonds do have a bit higher price than a 1.00-carat diamond but look similar to a 1.5-carat diamond and are far more affordable.

Still, due to their scarcity, these oversize diamonds are also a target of invested-minded collectors, so they do have at higher prices than regular size diamonds within the same price range. 

As seen, carat weight is therefore related to the size of a diamond but not completely equivalent due to the 3D measurements of diamonds. So two diamonds may have the same face size but different carat weight due to the depth of each stone. The depth of the polished stones is determined by the cut of the stone.

So check the depth of the diamond in the diamond certificate before purchase.This is especially important in round diamonds that do not have an excellent cut or in fancy shape diamonds.

Diamond Color

The color indicates the natural tone of diamond material. The most expensive diamonds are white colorless diamonds or fancy vivid color ones that are completely free of any other color hues including yellowish, brownish or greenish traces. In order to determine the color and compare different diamonds in an objective manner, diamonds are classified in color grades.

 

There were many common grading systems used until GIA (Gemological Institute of America) decided in the 1950s to break away with all previous grading systems and standardize them. So the GIA Color Scale starts at the letter D until Z for white diamonds rather than using numbers or other symbols. 

 

As mentioned above, the color evaluation of most white diamonds hinges on the degree of absence of color. If the diamond is chemically pure and structurally perfect then the light will pass through without any diffusion and it will not reflect any hue, thereby, accruing a higher value. 

 

When GIA determines the color it does it comparing the stone that needs to be graded against and set of master stones under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions. This examination is done 3 times and any contradictions between the 3 tests are resolved based on the majority. For example, if a stone obtains 2 times the F grade and one time the E one during the grading process, then GIA will give the end result of F.

 

However, the grading difference is so subtle that they are unrecognizable to the untrained eye as they start to become visible to the naked eye when comparing 2 or 3 different grade stones. Despite so, these distinctions are essential to determine diamond quality and price.

Example of the GIA grading master stones

 

Quick buyer tips

 

• Diamond expertise is not required to purchase a good diamond. The most important is that you feel comfortable with the looks and it fits your budget and purpose of purchase. 

 

• The difference between color is more evident when there are three or four grade differences and they grow exponentially. It’s easier to detect the difference between a K and an O than an F and an I. 

 

• Choosing the highest color is not always the smartest purchase decision. Diamonds graded D to F are regarded as collection items and do come with a premium price. On the other hand, they are preferred for investment as G and H as consider commercial colors.

 

• The diamond’s shape affects the perception of the color. As such, round brilliant diamonds are able to hide yellow color tinges better than fancy shape diamonds such as emerald cut. So keep the shape in mind when selecting a color.

 

Does the setting of a diamond affect the color?

 

In short, yes it does. There are different metals which are commonly used in the jewelry industry, namely, white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, platinum, silver and palladium. Among these yellow gold and rose gold can disguise faint yellowish tinges of color in diamonds that are below the K color grade.  If you were to choose platinum or white gold, it will clearly make the diamond of lower color look yellow. Still, these diamonds are not so common in high jewelry and accessories, so there is no need to overly focus in this point.

 

Diamond Clarity

Natural diamonds have formed in the top crust fo the earth thanks to the tremendous pressure and high temperatures that were reached in volcanic areas. During their natural formation diamonds acquire unique imperfections that help us to distinguish one diamond from another. 

 

These imperfections of a diamond are classified by clarities. Internal imperfections are called inclusions, while external ones are called blemishes. There is no such thing as a perfect diamond, but the closer the diamond is to perfection the more rare and higher the price that it bears.

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) developed a system of 11 grades to classify all the diamonds’ clarity into a comparable scale that could be used universally and homogeneously to substitute previous inaccurate terms such as pique or loupe clean.

Diamond Clarity Scale by GIA.

 

Fl / IF stands for flawless and internally flawless. VVS grade is split in 2 where VVS stands for very very slightly included and so on for the others. The final grade is split in 3 where I2 and I3 are seldom used in jewelry.

As in the scale above, more obvious imperfections are found in SI1 clarity and down. Diamonds from FL (flawless) / IF (internally flawless) down to VS2 as eye-clean. Meaning that if you inspect the diamond without any loupe or when you wear it in your jewelry, no imperfection can be detected by just looking at the diamond.

SI1, SI2 are mostly eye-clean and to a lesser degree I1. The last 3 grade diamonds that are eye-clean carry a premium price over other diamonds with the same grade as the look is that same as a VS1 or VS2 but the client only pays for a lesser grade one.

Diamond imperfections are also classified in the diamond professional world as black or no black. In Asia, “no black diamonds” are highly sought after due to cultural and even religious reasons.

Bear in mind that all classifications are made based on a 10x loupe and a GIA flawless diamonds is clear of internal and external imperfection at the 10x level only. So it is very important that you had a clear purchase goal. 

For example, diamond collectors and investors generally look for FL diamonds that have higher levels of liquidity and scarcity than other grades. On the other hand, the budget mindful buyer would target eye-clean SI2 or I1 diamonds so that he can divert more percentage of the budget to the other components of the 4Cs.

Finally, the diamond shape also affects whether a diamond would be seen as eye-clean or not once the stone is finally set in a ring or other piece of jewelry. Therefore, we encourage you to contact a diamond expert to personally assess which clarity best suits your budget, shape and jewelry type.

Diamond Cut

A great part of the diamond’s charm is the sparkling radiance that spreads out from the jewel and captivates people’s hearts. This brilliance is mainly due to the way the rough diamond has been cut. Therefore, when purchasing a diamond you for sure would like to get as much blink for your buck. 

Diamond cutting was traditionally done by master stonemasons that would clip away the impurities and shape the diamond into the archetypal shape that we all know. In the 1950s, the diamond industry started to incorporate the technical advances in the field of optics and computers to improve the outcome and reduce production time. All this gave birth to the modern diamond shapes and cuts that we all know.

Since there are a big deal of diamonds cuts and measuring scales, it might be a bit overwhelming for beginners, even professionals, who lack technical knowledge. Let’s discuss the main points to bear in mind when purchasing a diamond.

Main Diamond Features

The cut grade is decided according to the following parameters:

• Brightness: the degree of how much internal and external white light is reflected.
• Fire:  the degree of scattering of white light into all the color hue of the reflected light.
• Scintillation: The amount of sparkle a diamond produces, and the pattern of light and dark areas caused by reflections within the diamond
• Make of the diamond such as the ratio of weight to its diameter, the girdle thickness which may affect its durability, the symmetry of the facets, the pavilion depth, and the quality of polish of the facets.

Despite the different certification organizations, all agree to classify the diamond cuts into 5 grades:  Excellent, very good, good, fair, and poor. In fact, the cutting of a diamond is the least understood component of the 4Cs despite its significant effect on the price. Therefore, make sure to get excellent or at the very least very good cut when purchasing.

 

Light Reflection As Affected By The Diamond Cut

 

• Excellent: It entails precise cuts to create up to 57 facets to maximize brilliance at the expense of weight loss. These diamonds represent 3 percent of the whole production but more than 55 percent of the graded diamonds. Due to their scarcity, the cost of manufacturing, and rough material loss, they come at premium prices but they are a potentially great investment opportunity.
• Very Good: Diamond brilliance, fire, and light reflection are still highly pleasant. A very good cut diamonds group contains 15% of global production. This cut is your choice if you consider going slightly down the average budget or you are looking for a fancy shape diamond.
• Good cut: It is an acceptable cut with some small technical impressions that make the light return of the diamond slightly uneven. These diamonds are 25 percent of the production since many cutters prefer to balance the end product with the final weight of the piece. It’s economical but not a good investment asset and it would be difficult to be traded in the future.
• Fair cut:  Budget diamonds. If you look to get the biggest size possible with your budget and do not mind that the diamond does not shire as much, then this is your choice. 
• Poor cut: There is a nearly total light leakage so the diamond brilliance is heavily impacted. It is normally sold at an aggressive discount since its imperfection is clear to the even unlearned. It is to be avoided at most for fine jewelry and investment.

Although most of the diamonds sold in shops and in the luxury market have an excellent cut grade, it does not mean that is a good buy. There are many details that influence the final effect including table ratio, diamond depth ratio and crown angles. There are two main different ways to assess the optical refection: Heart & Arrows and Holloway Cut Advisor. Both theories agree in some cases and, of course, contradict each other in other instances. The diamond fun never stops!

 

 

Holloway Cut Advisor Pattern

 

Lastly, bear in mind is that most grading organizations such as  GIA or HRD only give a cut grade for round white diamonds. Other shapes and colored diamonds do not get an official grade and need to be appraised by the dealer and buyers.

In conclusion, due to the complexity of the diamond variants and its 4Cs parameters, it is strongly recommended to get a free consultation from an independent diamond expert that can check the diamond certificate before you purchase, regardless of where you intend to buy.